Category Archives: Tutorials

pintucked skirt real

An announcement and a pintucked skirt…

pintucked skirt real

Today we are so excited to announce our new partnership with our friends at


and we couldn’t be more thrilled.  Even their motto “For the Love of Sewing” fits into our everyday lives and the family-run company has a history of encouraging that love of sewing for over 40 years!

And today we are happy to help them celebrate National Serger Month.  National Serger Month is a month filled with projects that you can make on your serger and you even have a chance to win a Babylock Ovation serger.  Head to for all the details and to enter to win your very own serger!


We have had the chance to test drive our new Babylock sergers and have been so impressed with the quality.  And the jet-air threading is probably the coolest thing I have seen on a serger—-EVER!  At the class we took, we couldn’t believe how easy it was to thread the machine….it’s a dream.

And so the first project was to make a simple skirt all on the serger!  And even add some pintucked details with the pintucking foot that you can attach to your serger.  (Another amazing foot, I tell you!)

Here’s how I made the skirt:


  • Baby Lock Serger
  • Pintuck Foot for Serger
  • 1 yard chambray fabric
  • 4 Spools Maxi-Lock serger thread
  • 1 Spool all-purpose thread
  • Cutting mat
  • Rotary Cutter
  • Quilting ruler for cutting fabric
  • Tape measure
  • Chalk or water soluable marker for marking pintuck lines
  • One piece of elastic 2 inches smaller than waist measurement
  • Large safety pin for threading elastic through casing


1.  Using the tape measure, find a waist measurement and a waist to knee measurement for the person you are making the skirt for.

2.  Cut your skirt fabric into a rectangle with the following measurements; Waist to knee measurement plus 3 inches for the height and doubled waist measurement for the length.

3.  Serge all four sides of your skirt rectangle.serge up all four sides

4.  Using your fabric chalk or water soluable marker, mark where you want your pintucks horizontally on your skirt rectangle. mark chalk lines

5. Place your pintuck foot onto your serger with Guide A in place.  Sew the three rows of pintucks.  Here is a great video if you need some help.add pintucks

6.  After making the pintucks, place right sides of the skirt rectangle together and sew up the back seam of the up side seam

7. Turn over the top of skirt to form a casing for the elastic.  Press and stitch leaving a 1 inch opening to thread elastic through.  Using the large safety pin, thread elastic through casing and stitch together.  Then stitch the casing closed.fold over top and make casing

8. Hem the bottom of your skirt.

fold over and hem skirt

And you are done!




Pencil Skirt Knit Stripes

How to sew a KNIT pencil skirt…or at least how I do it…

Pencil Skirt Knit Stripes
This week we’ve been having a pencil skirt making sew along.  On Monday we gave you all the instructions for how to create a pencil skirt sloper using your own measurements and then yesterday we gave you instructions for how to cut your fabric and sew up your pencil skirt.

But yesterdays instructions were for fabrics like cotton, denim, and wool.  So what if you are like me and want to make yourself a pencil skirt from a knit fabric?

Then today is your day!  Knit pencil skirts are seriously a breeze to make…they are actually one of my favorite projects right now because they come together so quickly and you have something so fun when you are finished.

Let’s get started.

The only supplies you will need are the sloper you created for yourself using Monday’s “Drafting A Skirt Sloper” instructions , your fabric, scissors, pins, and a serger.

Once you have gathered those five things we are going to decide where we want our waistband.  For mine I measured down the curved side of my sloper about 3.5 inches and then drew a curved line that mimics the curve of the waistline.  After I drew my line I then cut along that same line to remove the top section of my sloper that will now become my waistband.

Repeat this on both your front and back sloper pieces.Knit Pencil Skirt Tutorial Step 1

Next cut out your main skirt front and back piece.  Do this by cutting 1 front and 1 back piece on the fold.

Now it’s time to cut our waist band pieces.

Place your front waistband piece on the fold.Knit Pencil Skirt Tutorial Step 2

Trace the bottom and side of your piece.

Then flip that pattern over like a page of a book.Knit Pencil Skirt Tutorial Step 3

And trace again.

When you are finished your waistband piece should look like this:

Knit Pencil Skirt Tutorial Step 4

If it does, cut it out.  If it doesn’t send me an email and let’s figure out what’s going on….

(Make sure you repeat this process for both your front and your back waist band pieces.)

Now it’s time to get sewing…if we’ve done everything right we have a main front piece of fabric, a main back piece of fabric, a front waistband piece, and a back waistband piece.

Place your front and your back waistband pieces right sides together and serge the two end sections together.Knit Pencil Skirt Tutorial Step 5

(It should look like this when you are finished.)

Next place your main front fabric and your main back fabric right sides together and serge.Knit Pencil Skirt Tutorial Step 6

Perfect!  Now fold your waistband in half lengthwise with the right sides out.Knit Pencil Skirt Tutorial Step 7

And now your waistband is ready to be attached to your skirt!

Do this by placing your waistband inside the skirt (so right sides are together and the raw edged side of your waistband is aligned with the raw top edge of your skirt).Knit Pencil Skirt Tutorial Step 8

Then pin the side seams of the skirt to the side seams of the waistband.  And then start pinning the skirt to the waistband around the entire circumference.

Once you are pinned you are ready to surge!

Surge together your main fabric to your waistband.Knit Pencil Skirt Tutorial Step 9

When you are finished the inside of your skirt will look like this.

And now all you have left to do is to hem your skirt in with whatever method you like to use best.

Then get all fancy and kick up your heels because…Pencil Skirt Tutorial Knit Green

You’re done!!!

But before I sign off for the day I want to give you a few tips for sewing pencil skirts with knit:

Knit stretches…seriously….so when I am cutting out my fabric I don’t add any ease or seam allowances to my sloper…I just use it “as is” for a pattern.  And sometimes I even cut my skirt a quarter inch smaller than my sloper if I have really stretchy fabric.

The heavier the knit the happier I am with my skirt…both the fit and the appearance of the skirt.

Pencil Skirt Knit Tutorial Blue

And as for where to get knit….well…..each of the skirts shown in this post were made from knit purchased at a thrift store…thick, smelly, heavy, vintage knit…that I am absolutely IN LOVE WITH…it’s my favorite (and because I bought it all at a thrift store it made the cost of ALL three skirts and the poster board for my sloper less than $10!).  But I realize that moth ball scented fabric isn’t for everyone so if you are looking for great apparel fabric I’d check Michael Levine’s online store…they always have something cool.

Alright!  So that is it for me today.

Have a great Thursday everyone!


PS—Yes, my legs really are that white in real life….it’s been a long, long, long winter…..

pencil skirt sew along

Pencil Skirt Sew Along–Sewing Up Your Skirt

pencil skirt sew along

Today is Day #2 of our Pencil Skirt Sew Along and we are going to focus on sewing up our skirt.  You should have your skirt sloper drafted and then your paper pattern traced on top with ease and seam allowances.  In case you missed how to draft your pencil skirt on Monday, head to the Skirt Drafting Tutorial HERE.

And now we are ready to cut our fabric and sew up our skirt.

cut out your skirt front and back

Step 1:  Place your skirt front on the FOLD of your fabric (making sure the skirt is on grain).  Cut ONE skirt front on the fold.  Then cut TWO skirt backs.  Mark your darts.

Step 2:  Make your facings.

I like to make facings (a partial inside lining for the top of the skirt) for these skirts.  If you are adventurous and want to line your skirt you are welcome to, or you can just turn over the top and finish with bias tape–which I will show you down a bit further.  But I love the “finishedness” of a good facing.  So I will show you how to make one.

Fold the dart out of your pattern.  Just connect the two dart lines exactly as you would if you were sewing it up.  Put a pin in it to hold the dart together.  Then measure down 3.5 inches and mark a line that follows the top curve of your skirt.  This will be your facing pattern.  Trace this pattern onto a new piece of paper and repeat for the pattern back.

fold out the dart to make facings

Then cut out your facing pieces as you did your skirt front (ONE on the fold) and skirt backs (cut 2).  Stitch the side seams of your facing so that you have one continuous piece.

facings for skirt


Step 3:  Sew up the two front darts on your pencil skirt as well as the two back darts.

If you have never sewn a dart….please don’t fret they are easier than they look and I made a tutorial here that will explain exactly what you are going to do–SEW A DART TUTORIAL.

sew up the dart


Step 4:  With right sides of fabric together, sew the 2 back pieces to the skirt front at the side seams.

sew up side seams


Step 5:  With right sides together, sew your facing to your skirt top, using the seam allowance you cut for your pattern.

sew facings to skirt


Step 6: Sew bias tape to your facing bottom to finish the raw edge.

If you have never done this before, you are going to open your bias tape up (there are 4 folds).  Sew the bias tape of the TOP fold to the BACK of the facing piece.

add bias tape to facings

Fold bias tape to the front of the facing and stitch the bias tape down.

bias tape finishing


Step 7:  Insert your invisible zipper in between your skirt and your facing.  If you don’t know how to do this….click here for a full tutorial on SEWING AN INVISIBLE ZIPPER INTO A LINING.

insert invisible zipper


Step 8: Sew up your vent (if you put on in–see A Fashionable Stitches’ Tutorial) and then hem your skirt!

I have done skirts with just a regular stitched hem, hand-hemmed or you can do a blind-stitch hem (like I did on this skirt that I will show you on Friday).  If you need a tutorial for a blind-stitch hem go here.

hem your skirt

And you are done!  We’d love to see them when you finish (don’t worry you have plenty of time!).  Will you hashtag your skirts #pencilskirtsewalong so we can find them?  Thanks a million.


pencil skirt sew along

Pencil Skirt Sew Along: Drafting a Skirt Sloper

pencil skirt sew along

Today we are going to draft our pencil skirt sloper.  If this is your first time drafting a flat pattern to your measurements….you are going to love the fit.  Because it will be drafted to your specific measurements, it will fit like a glove, no matter what size you are.  You may need to adjust the side seams or the darts (we are using standard measurements for darts) but we will show you how to do that at the end.

For our pattern we are basically taking our own measurements and putting them down on a flat paper (hence the term flat-patterning).  And let’s define a couple more terms while we are at it.  A sloper (what we will be making) is a basic pattern without seam allowances or ease, which will be made DIRECTLY from your measurements.  And “ease” is the additional room in a pattern that is made for comfort of clothing (less ease—the tighter the clothing, more ease–the looser the clothing).  Okay, definitions out of the way….let’s begin.

I have put every one of these steps onto a handout that you can print out and refer to as you are drafting.  It is probably the easiest way (other than sitting in front of your computer screen ;).  You can find the whole directions HERE!

Let’s get started:

  1. Take your measurements: (we learned to pattern draft in centimeters, so these directions are written in centimeters–you can convert to inches if you would like ;)  You also might need a friend to help you.  For more information on taking your measurements, refer to this measuring post.

                     Waist —measure around your actual waist (elbows on waist and bend)

                     Hip—the fullest part of your bottom half

                     Waist to Hip— put top of tape measure on waistline, measure to hip measurement.

                     Waist to Knee—putting the tape measure on your waistline, measure to your knee.

2.  Draw a straight parallel line about an inch or so from the top of your posterboard.  This will be your “waistline.”

3. On the edge of your posterboard (which will be your center front line), mark your waist to hip measurement and your waist to knee measurement.  Using these marks, draw straight parallel lines to make your “hipline” and your “knee length.”

4.  Take your waist measurement from step #1 and divide by 4.  Mark this point on your waistline as shown in the picture below.  Measure up 1 cm from this waist mark and curve your skirt waistline.

5.  Take your hip measurement and divide by 4.  Mark this point on your waistline and kneeline as shown in the picture below.

6.  Connect the waistmark and the hipmark with a slight curve (using your hand as an arc or a French curve).


7.  Find half-way point of your waistline dot as shown in the picture below. Mark.  This will be the top dart point.  Mark this top dart point on your hipline as well (this will be your bottom dart point).  Draw a straight line between the top dart mark and the dart mark on your hipline.

8.  Find your top dart point.  Measure 1 cm to each side and mark.  Connect these new marks to your bottom dart points.  This will be the lines where you will sew your dart.

9.  You are finished with your skirt front!!!!

A few notes about darts:

*How big to make darts often depends on your body shape.  If you have a boyish figure (straight up and down) your darts will probably be smaller than what is shown and if you are a curvier figure you will need bigger darts to make your skirt fit you at the waist.

*Before you put your darts on your pattern, you can make a skirt “muslin” and try it on.  It will be very obvious if you need darts.  If so, you can pull the fabric and pin it in a triangular-shape to figure out how big your dart needs to be.

Drafting the Skirt Back

  1. Repeat steps 1-6 exactly like your skirt front.

  2. On step number 7, your dart measurement should be ¾ the distance of your waistline dot, not halfway like in your skirt front.

  3. On step number 8, instead of measuring 1 cm to each side of top dart point, you are going to measure 1.5 cm for the back dart.  Connect dart points as you did on the skirt front.

  4. I like to add a back vent to my pencil skirts.  They are sometimes called a kick pleat.  This tutorial is getting long…so I am going to send you to Sunni’s blog—she has a fantastic explanation of what they are, how to add one and then how to sew it up.  I like square but she does a 45 degree angle on the top of hers.  GO HERE if you want to draft a back vent!

Remember–the drafting that you just did is a pattern sloper (a body draft without seam allowances) and that you will need to add ease and seam allowances (to ALL SIDES) to make it a pattern for an actual skirt. Back center needs to have seam allowances too….front center will be on the fold.

For a tight fitting skirt you need to add .5 cm ease and then your regular seam allowances.  For a looser fitting skirt you will need to add 1-2 cm for ease and then your regular seam allowances.  I NEVER do this on my sloper.  I always trace my sloper onto pattern paper (or tissue paper is great) and add the ease I want and the seam allowances on top of that.  Then, you won’t mess up your actual body measurements on your sloper and you can use your sloper again to make a new skirt (with different ease or seam allowances!)

I didn’t add ease to my skirt, because I made it out of a stretch denim (or this one is a stretch cotton sateen).  You DEFINATELY don’t want ease if you are making this in knit (and you might want to shave off a bit of the sloper when you trace it if you have super-stretchy knit!)

**** A couple of helpful hints.  I am curvy.  I have hips and a bum that are two different measurements.  So what do I do?  I take TWO hip measurements!  Essentially, you can take as many as you want.

I take my first hip measurement about 5 inches down from my actual waist (I am switching back and forth from inches to cm–sorry, I do it all the time when I draft.  It makes me weird.)  And then I take another one about 7 inches down where the widest part of my lower body is.   Here is what my sloper looks like with 2 hip/bottom measurements. I hadn’t smoothed out my curve yet, but I do take my French curve and smooth it out a bit…it helps with the shaping of the body.  You can also see in my sloper that I only take my dart to this first hip measurement.  It fits me way better.

skirt sloper e

See you Wednesday to SEW!!!!


pencil skirt

How to Draft a Pencil Skirt Sew–Along

pencil skirt

One thing I think is a staple in any wardrobe is a straight skirt or a pencil skirt.  I think they look fantastic on all body shapes and I just love them.  I have been dreaming about them in about 100 colors for Spring lately and I keep seeing bright colored ones all over fashion magazines.  So, since both liZ and I are dying for Spring, we thought what a better way to get ready for Spring than a pencil skirt sew along next week!

When we draft we will show you how to make a straight skirt (mine above is a straight skirt because it goes straight down from my hips) but we will show you how to turn it into a pencil skirt as well (narrower at the bottom opening and usually just below the knee).  Then you can have some perfectly fitted skirt for yourself as well this Spring!  We hope that you will join us….

pencil skirt details

So here’s how it’s going to work….

On Monday we will show you how to draft your pencil skirt to your measurements (and we’ll give you Tuesday to catch up if need be).  The drafting part of the skirt should take you about 1 to 1.5 hours to draft up if you have never done one before.

Supplies for Monday:  tape measure, straight ruler, posterboard (to draft on), pencil and eraser

Then on Wednesday we will put up the tutorial for how to sew up your skirt.

Supplies for Wednesday: 1 to 1.5 yards of fabric (depending on the size–I used less than a yard of 60 inch fabric), matching bias tape for finishing top edge, thread to match, 7 to 9 inch invisible zipper for closure

And then on Friday we will show you some variations to your straight skirt…and some that we have made in the past, as well as how to add facings or a waistband if you wish to do so.

I can’t wait…..I have two cut out waiting for next week to sew along too!



Ragged Baby Quilt Tutorial Titile

EASY Ragged Baby Blanket Tutorial

Today we have the how to for the easiest baby blanket ever.

Alright…maybe it’s not the easiest baby blanket ever…but it is pretty simple to make.  Seriously, if you can sew (and cut) semi straight lines you can make this blanket.  (And have it turn out practically perfect!)

Ragged Baby Quilt Tutorial Titile

We put this tutorial together as a part of a series that Melanie from The Crafty Cupboard and Lisa from Maybe She Made It are putting on called:

N2N v2

It is to celebrate the upcoming arrivals of both of their babies.  (Isn’t that fun???)  I love babies…they are just magic.  Pure and simple: magic.  So we were so excited to be a part of this fun series…and I wanted to share something that I’ve made for my own babies and for baby gifts numerous time.

Now, like I said earlier this is an easy blanket to put together but it also washes well and my kids have loved them.  (Especially because it seems like the more you wash them the softer they get.)  And….this was one of the first sewing projects that I tackled on my own…and I’m telling you if you are new to sewing, this is a project for you!

Let’s get started!

Here’s what you will need:

84 squares of flannel that are 6″x 6″  (42 for the front and 42 for the back)

And here’s how to put it together:

#1.  Lay out the top of your blanket (6 squares across and 7 squares down…like in the photograph below)

Rag Square Baby Blanket Step 1

*You can lay out the back of your quilt now as well….I’ve made so many of these that I don’t lay the back out anymore but if you’d like to lay the back out as well, now would be the time.  And I’d recommend it if this is the first one you’ve made!

#2.  Make a flannel sandwich…like this:  Square one front side face up, square one back side face down, square two back side face up and square two front side face down.  (Like in the photograph below.)  Another way to say that would be to take the front and back side squares from your first square and put them together with the wrong sides touching.  Then do the same thing to the front and back squares of your second square.  Then take those and put them together with the back sides together.  (Either way, the photo describes it better than my words do.)

Rag Square Baby Blanket Step 2

*It sounds confusing…but after you do it one time…it’s easy.

#2.  When you have your front, back, back, front pieces all stacked up sew them together using a 1/4 to a 1/2 inch seam allowance.  (Like shown in the photograph below.)

Rag Square Baby Blanket step 3

*This is what the front side should look like.  And the photograph below will show you what the back side should look like.
Rag Square Baby Blanket Tutorial Step 4

#3.  Now you are going to connect all your blocks together in the same way.  I work through the blanket row by row…I connect all the blocks in row one and then move to row two and so on until all the rows are finished.  (As shown in the photograph below.)
Rag Square Baby Quilt Step 5
#4.  Once all the rows are complete I put row one on top of row two (right sides together) and sew the rows together.  Then I will place row three on top of row two (right sides together) and sew.  I keep repeating this until all the rows are sewn together.  And your blanket is formed!

#5.  You just have one last sewing step to complete.  Sew a stitch around the entire perimeter of your blanket 1/4 to 1/2 inch in from the edge.  (As shown in the photograph below.)
Rag Square Baby Quilt Step 6
#6.  Now it’s time for clipping!  With your scissors clip all your seams (the perimeters of each individual block).  Clip about every 1/4 inch (or closer).  Just be cautious to clip up to your sewing stitches but NOT through them! :)
Rag Square Baby Quilt Step 7

#7.  After you finish just wash, dry, fluff, and enjoy!

Ragged Baby Quilt Detail

They really are great blankets to use and are one of those projects that helped convert me to sewing.


PS:  Happy Aztec New Year!


Satin and Tulle Skirt Tutorial

With St.Patrick’s Day coming up I thought I’d share a quick tutorial for making little girls golden tulle skirts.  (But isn’t green the color of the day you say…well…not if you are Grace…she’s convinced that you wear both colors…and the gold is to help you find the leprechauns who love gold….)
ANYWAY…Here is the post:
We shared it a few months back over at Sewing in No Man’s Land
Hello! Sewing in No Man’s Land Readers!
We are so excited to be over here today sharing a skirt tutorial.  (Skirts are one of our favorite things to make!)
We are Elizabeth and liZ from over at Simple Simon and Company and aside from our love of girls skirts we also love adding tulle to our sewing creations!
So today we decided to combine our love of skirts and tulle into a very simple skirt that we made for our girls for the holiday season:

They are gold satin with a tulle over lay…perfect for the holidays, New Years, and even through Valentine’s.  They are easy to sew up and I love the way they look.

So if you want to make some here’s what you to do:

#1.  Cut your satin and your tulle pieces.  You will need to cut one piece of satin and 4 pieces of tulle.  (Although you really could get by with only 3 pieces of tulle or use as much as 6…it’s just depends on your personal preference.)

I cut both my satin and my tulle to be at least twice as wide as my girls are around the waist (And really I just usually use the full width of the fabric.)   And then I cut them to be as long the measurement is from their waist to the desired length of the skirt plus a generous 1 and 1/2 inches (for the elastic casing and the hem).

#2.  “Hem” the bottom of the satin portion of your skirt.

I do this by turning the bottom edge under 1/4 of an inch and sewing.  Then I turn it under another 1/4 of an inch and sew to give the skirt a finished hemline.

#3.  Attach the tulle to your satin.

I did this by pinning the tulle on top of my satin and then running a long stitch across the top of the skirt like in the photo below.

#4.  Sew up your side seam.

I did this by folding the skirt, right sides together, lining up all the pieces of tulle and satin, and then stitching them together using an almost half inch seam just to make sure I had all the layers safely within the seam.  (Then I cut off the excess tulle and satin.)

#5.  Make the casing for your elastic.

I did this by folding my layers of tulle and satin over about an inch to the wrong side and stitching it down.  Remembering to leave a small opening to thread my elastic through.

#6.  Insert you elastic.  Stitch the opening in the casing closed and flip your skirt right side out.

You are done!
***Note I cut the length of my tulle and the length of my satin the same length.  However, I finished the edge of the satin and not the tulle which now makes the satin layer shorter than the tulle layer.  This is done on purpose so that none of the lining will stick out farther than the tulle.  The tulle layer should be slightly longer and fluffier to make the skirt look cuter while it is being worn.***
 I wish I had pictures of the girls all in their matching skirts…but they won’t be opening them until Christmas…or the morning of the family Christmas party if I can’t wait until Christmas….
Thank you again Kelly for inviting us over here today.
What a fun series to be able to be a part of!
Squid Towel Title

Squid Squid Whale or…If Nautical Nonsense Be Something You Wish


Here’s the deal.

Susan from Living With Punks invited us to join in her Home Sewn Series where a lovely bunch of bloggers are getting together to sew items for their homes.   See the terrific list below?  It’s a fun group…and will be an excellent series!  The only problem is…

Home Sewn700

…that Susan invited us awhile back…and in between the invitation and today a lot of things happened…including me moving and reorganizing our home library.  (No…it’s not enough for me to hoard fabric…I have to collect books as well.)

And one of those books happened to be “20,000 Leagues Under The Sea” which I read for the first time last summer…and got a little obsessed with and read a version of it to the kids…and then made them all watch the old Kirk Douglas movie…and look through old Jacques Cousteau books….and ANYWAY, last week I rediscovered the book…and one thing led to another and before I knew what was happening this is what I made for Susan’s Home Sewn Series:Squid Towel Collage

Giant Squid and whale dish towels to use in the kitchen!!!

And the thing is…I LOVE THEM.  (Who doesn’t want a giant squid hanging out in their kitchen and helping with the dishes????)  Plus they were just fun to make.  I had some crazy colored dish towels that I bought eons ago at the Dollar store and some felt that I picked up there last week as well.  So the project was really inexpensive.  Then add in that I like to draw weird things and cut them out and I had a miniature match made in heaven.

Here’s what I did:

#1.  Drew some crazy animals.

#2.  Traced them onto felt and cut them out.

#3.  Fabric glued them to the dish towel.

#4.  Stitched around each shape with my sewing machine.

#5.  Added a little bit of embroidery for fun.

That’s it…so really you could whip up some of your own in a jiffy with more normal animals…or if you nautical nonsense IS something you wish then you can down load the drawings I used for my sea life towels HERE.

(AND if you did then you could say things to your husband like, “Whale it looks like it’s time for you to dry the dishes!”)

Squid Towels all three

Or not…

But whatever you do…squid, no squid…armadillo, giraffe, yellow jacket…head over to Susan’s blog, check out her series and enter to win her fabulous giveaway!!!  (It’s a good one!)


PS—Ok, yes…squids are weird.  But #1.  I like them and #2. It could have been weirder…I also drew out a narwhal and an old school deep sea diver to go along with these guys.  (Which actually I kind of love to…and will probably make for my own entertainment….because what goes better with squid than narwhal?)

PPS—I think this is how I want to play “Duck Duck Goose” from now on…squid….squid….squid….WHALE!!!!  AGGGHHHHH!!!!!

PPSS—Perhaps all these sleepless nights with sick kids are letting you see way too far into the madness that is my brain….good thing it’s Elizabeth that will be posting tomorrow!!!


Personalized Polka Dotted Aprons: A How To

Grace has a wonderful kindergarten teacher who often wears aprons.  So awhile back when Grace wanted to give her a gift we decided to make her a “fancy” apron with her initial on it.
We started with a premade, canvass apron.
Beads in a bottle
Then I drew out her initial on some copy paper and placed it where we thought it looked best on the apron:
Gold Polka Dot Apron Step 1
And then we started to make dots!
The dots were easy to make we just squeezed the paint straight out of the bottle and through it’s tiny tip.
Gold Polka Dot Apron Step #2
After we had enough dots surrounding the letter we removed the copy paper and all that was left was to let our apron dry.
It was easy and fun…and I love how the metallic polka dots looked!
It was a perfect gift (that you can pull together in a pinch!)
Happy Monday Everyone!
crochet cozy--simplesimonandcompany

Riley Blake Crochet Cozy

crochet cozy--simplesimonandcompany

A few weeks ago I shared this handmade gift over at Riley Blake Designs, but today I am bringing it home…..

opening shot--crochet cozy--simplesimonandcompany

Here’s the story behind it.  I was recently helping my mom clean out her craft room and we kept finding loose crochet hooks around the place… here, one there and quite a few more in her crochet basket.  And an idea was born.  She was in desperate need of a crochet cozy!

I used just under a half-yard of fabric and it took about 1 hour to make—which is just the kind of sewing I love.

crochet cozy first picture

Here is what you will need if you want to make one….

supplies---crochet cozy


supplies1--crochet cozy

And here are the easy directions…..

step1-crochet cozy real


crochet cozy--step 2

step3-crochet cozy


step 4--crochet cozy


step 5--crochet cozy


step 6-crochet cozy


real step 7-crochet cozy

Here is what a walking foot looks like in case you were wondering.  And you might also be wondering if you absolutely need a walking foot to topstitch—and the answer is no.  It just makes things a bit easier because of the 3 or 4 layers of fabric that you are sewing through.  If you aren’t using a walking foot, I would up your stitch length a bit to help the layers go through your machine a bit easier.

step 8-crochet cozy


step9 crochet cozy



step 10-crochet cozy


All you have left is to clip your seams and you are done!  And the sparkle cotton looks so pretty up close and in person….it’s darling.

step 11-crochet cozy

P.S.  Do you want to win a 36 yard bundle of blogger’s favorite fabrics???? (YES!!!)  Head HERE to enter today!!!!!